Moncler to discontinue top lines, designers Valli and Browne to leave

Moncler will discontinue its Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge runway collections after the Spring/Summer 2018 season, announcing a new strategy in the coming weeks.

“The group must vary and open up towards different horizons,” Chairman and Chief Executive Remo Ruffini said in a statement.

Designers Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne would dedicate themselves to their own brands and the Spring Summer 2018 collections would be the last ones for the two lines, it added.

While Ruffini declined to share details on his future plans for Moncler, a move away from the runway collections signals his desire to bring more immediacy the brand. “The world has really changed since I started the Gamme project,” he said. “It’s more volatile than it was 10 years ago. This is the moment to make something for this world, with more energy.”

Early evidence of this shift in strategy can be seen at Moncler’s new 800-square-metre flagship on Via Montenapoleone in Milan, where products from different lines  — including the “Gamme” collections, the main range and one-off collaborations — are merchandised together rather than separated into different departments. “The client wants something new every week, every month,” Ruffini said. “Before, it was six months to deliver a product. With more energy, with more deliveries, with more products, we can easily be at the top of the market.”

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