Baselworld 2017: most anticipated luxury watch launches
Rolex has unveiled a brand-new addition to its Yacht-Master watch collection at this year’s Baselworld – Rolex Yacht-Master II 40 in Everose. A crown of multi-colored jewels graces the rotating bezel — 32 sapphires, eight tsavorites, and one diamond, to be exact. Though gems have graced Yacht-Master bezels before, they’ve never been on the 40 mm model, and they’ve never been this vibrant.
The gems are set in a case made from Rolex’s proprietary 18k rose gold alloy called “Everose,” and are paired with an Oysterflex rubber band. It’s undoubtedly a sport watch, and one that will catch the average person’s eye.
Housing the striking longitudinal placement of Corum’s linear CO113 calibre is the Golden Bridge Rectangle. Revisiting the design of the original Golden Bridge from 1980, the new timepiece sandwiches the movement between panes of sapphire crystal and encases it all in 18-carat gold.
With the spring barrel set a six o’clock and escapement at 12 o’clock, the elongated calibre – affixed to a beautifully engraved central pillar – is but one arresting feature of the design. Riveted to the bridge beams that run along the length of the movement are geometric girders that, upon closer inspection, reveal themselves to be stylised, Art Deco-inspired Roman numerals.
In 2017, Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut collection is celebrating its 20th birthday. For the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut collection, the manufacture is presenting the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G in 18K white gold. With a diameter of 42mm, it introduces a new “Jumbo” size to the line. The new Ref. 5168G is the first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in 18K white gold. But as with the other Aquanaut models (and the sibling Nautilus watches), the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged. The night blue hue of the dial and the strap is new as well. Additionally, the night blue color of the dial gradates from bright in the center to black toward the outside as was the case with the Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold. The embossed checkerboard pattern provides a backdrop for the applied,
The second debut is the Aquanaut Ref. 5650 “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” in white gold in a limited edition of 500 watches. The partially-open dial showcasing one of the mechanical innovtions provides for a somewhat controversial look from the conservative Patek brand. The flexible mechanism of the time-zone setting device is visible in a dial aperture.
Launched over 15 years ago, the Patek Philippe Advanced Research program stands out with two major innovations. The first one is the Spiromax® balance spring with a new geometry that in addition to the outer boss (for improved isochronism) now also has a boss at the inner end. It delivers a noteworthy improvement of isochronism in vertical positions. The second innovation relates to compliant (flexible) mechanisms made of steel. They replace mechanical articulations with filigreed leaf springs in crosswise arrangements. The result is a time-zone setting mechanism that reduces the number of parts from previously 37 to 12. It is not only thinner but also works without lubrication and wear.
To mark the 60th anniversary of the legendary OMEGA Speedmaster, OMEGA has launched a new Speedmaster Moonwatch Automatic Master Chronometer at Baselworld 2017. This particular Speedmaster takes two motifs that the model is known for—moon landings and racing—and combines them into one super sporty chronograph. The new Speedmaster sports a 44.25mm stainless steel case that houses a black dial. The so-called “racing dial” includes a minute track, a pair of subdials, and the date at 6 o’clock. There are also plenty of orange accents on the dial, ceramic bezel, and black rally-style leather strap.
Breitling reaffirms its supreme mastery of chronographs by unveiling its own split-seconds chronograph movement – one of the most sophisticated horological complications. Developed in the spirit of instruments for professionals, this Manufacture Breitling Caliber B03 (protected by two patents) is distinguished by its innovative construction ensuring a maximum of precision, sturdiness and reliability. To present this major technical breakthrough, Breitling has chosen its most emblematic model, the famous Navitimer, interpreted in steel or gold with an exclusive bronze-colored dial.
With a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and the rare equation of time, Breguet Marine Equation Marchante 5887 is the highlight of the collection of the brand at Baselworld 2017. There are apertures for the day and month, a golden sun-tipped minute hand for the solar time and a retrograde anchor-tipped one for the date. The wave pattern engraving was developed specially for this model, and the back features a splendid depiction of the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy.
The House of Harry Winston captures the ephemeral beauty of the cherry blossom tree on the dial of its enchanting Avenue Classic Cherry Blossom Timepiece. The gorgeous scenery celebrates one of Mother Nature’s most beautiful gifts with diamonds and pink sapphires and is protected for eternity in a case that mirrors the architecture of Harry Winston’s Fifth Avenue Flagship Salon in New York. Inspired by the beauty of the Japanese Sakura season Mr. Winston, the legendary New York jeweler, was a close observer of nature and translated the fluid, organic temperament of the natural world into his high jewelry diamond designs.
At Baselworld 2017, Blancpain is presenting a new Date Moon Phases women’s timepiece in the Villeret collection. The opaline dial of this red gold watch is swept over by solid leaf-shaped hands, a pointer-type date display and a sapphire moon-phase indication. The depiction of the lunar cycle on the dial of this watch evokes the ancestral links between watchmaking and astronomy. The face of the moon corresponding to the current moon phase is visible through a dial aperture.
A light and aesthetically pure design featuring a prominently displayed flying tourbillon, the new MasterGraff Structural Skeleton Automatic features a skeletonised dial, sapphire glass bridges, open worked hands and a small offset rotor to allow the inner workings of the watch to be seen from all angles.
Christian Dior creates a mini diorama depicting an exquisite botanical scene in 3D detail. Flowers, leaves and a heavenly background – so real you could almost touch them – are rendered in diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02t Tourbillon Diamond watch is based on the successful Carrera tourbillon, a 45mm titanium case made from 12 modular components (lugs, case middle, bezel, case back, crown and its moulding, push-buttons, gasket between the middle and the bezel and sapphire crystals). The bezel is made from white gold and set with 68 baguette diamonds.
The sporty and sophisticated new Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph model with a vintage touch appears in His and Hers versions. The dial of the former is black with large luminescent numerals, while the latter is crafted from white mother-of-pearl studded with diamonds. These sporty models with a delightful retro touch hum to the beat of a COSC-certified high-precision ‘engine’. Available in 42 mm and 39 mm versions, this watchmaking tandem boldly demonstrates that the classic racing spirit cherished by Chopard is designed and expressed in both feminine and masculine modes.
deGRISOGONO Eccentrica is an elegant, self-confident, sensual and subtle creation which vividly epitomises the multi-facetted, free-spirited deGRISOGONO woman. A case designed like an anthem to roundness, with a spellbinding depth effect created by the off-centred circles and the play on diamonds. A dial that tells the story of time in a sweep of stylised Arabic numerals opulently laid out around a bevelled inner bezel ring. A delicately asymmetrical architecture that extends through to the lugs – like two arms in which the round case nestles gently, enhanced by the seductive cadence of dense gemsetting.